![]() I thought about putting a second batt in the back and taking the lead to the front off of my starting batt, at least that way the TM wouldnt be pulling juice from that. If you make the connections at the plug, the plug is a mirror image of the receptacle. Now remember that the terminals I just mentioned are at the RECEPTACLE. ![]() You will then have +24 volts from the Lower right terminal on the receptacle and ground at the upper right terminal. If you have properly identified the receptacle connections as you indicated in your first post, then a jumper between the upper right terminal on the receptacle to the lower left terminal on the receptacle is necessary. If you insist on using whatever plug you have AND it OR the receptacle has screw type wiring connections in it, you need to make the series connection at the receptacle or the troller plug. Simple, and far less chance to make sparks. Or you could just do what I suggested, eliminate a long run (two actually) that eliminates unnecessary voltage drop and use just two pins. To get 24 volts from this system you need a matching four pin trolling motor plug that has the jumpers in it. There are two separate circuits (one from each battery going to the receptacle -hence the four wires. Your batteries are not in series or parallel. Regardless what you do some rewiring is necessary. The reason I suggested the two wire system is a) four wires are unnecessary and b) it eliiminates a long run of cable that causes voltage drop. You now have 24 volts going to the corresponding terminals at the receptacle.ĥ) Wire the trolling motor wires to the corresponding terminals on the plug. Tape the ends of the wires as they won't be used.ģ) Now connect the red & black pair as shown in the following diagram.Ĥ) Make a jumper that connects the positive of the left battery to the negative of the right battery. One pair is connected to each battery.Ģ) Totally disconnect the orange and black pair at the battery but DO NOT cut or remove them from the boat. Here is what you do.ġ) There should be two pairs of wires (usually one red & black and one orange & black) going up front. Note that you only need two wires since the series connection is made at the batteries rather than at the connector. Do you currently have a mating plug for this receptacle? If you do, the diagram below shows the simplest way to do this. It is just a four terminal plug and it was included because the boat manufacturer felt it was necessary to accommodate 12 volt, 24 volt, and combination 12/24 volt motors which are scarce as hens teeth new these days. Plus, connecting the wires can lead to a high generation of energy supporting up to 36V.They have nothing to do with higher level fishing boats. These plugs can hold multiple wires, allowing a user to attach more than one battery up to 3 batteries at a time. Universal Design – Another type of division of power is universal design.Make sure that they aren’t capable of attaching multiple batteries. It can be used for light voltage batteries, further preventing heating issues. Single Voltage Design – Using a single voltage design means it will support a 12V trolling motor battery.This further tends to be easy maintenance with no complicated wiring.īased on the power division, we can broadly categorize the motor plus into two categories: The plugs are lightweight connectors and will preferably be easily replaced.But choosing a motor plug will end this too. Assembly and disassembling of wires over and over could be exhausting.As the connection is established safe and secure, you will rarely find any wire heat issues or sparkling issues of open wires.Issues such as loosening of the connections between trolling motor and the motor plug shall never be encountered. ![]() ![]() It will provide a long-lasting and secure connection with the trolling motor.Hence it is essential to keep the key considerations a good quality plug will tend to provide you. A suitable trolling motor plug can prove to have various advantages. ![]()
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